South America In Style: Chiclayo, Peru

The transfer to the city Chiclayo in Peru by our Personal Guide Judith on the morning of Saturday 1 October was yet another testament to the level of customer service in South America. After approximately four hours in a private bus driven by the fabulous Ricardo, we reached our beautiful hotel in Chiclayo, Casa Andina Classic. We did however take a “de tour” to the marvellous Huaca Cao Viejo or Cao Pyramids which has diverse surroundings including a beach on one side in addition to corn and avocado farms on the other. One of the most fascinating aspects of this ruin is that when archaeologists discovered the Lady of Cao mummy in 2006, it was so well preserved, that even her skin and tattoos were intact despite the elements and the time that had elapsed.

Judith made her way back to Trujillo by bus and although we’d spent the most part of the day travelling to Chiclayo, we arrived just in time for a leisurely sunset swim in the hotel pool and dinner. In terms of its gastronome, Chiclayo is renowned for authentic and traditional cuisine such as one of my favourites, arroz con pato or rice with duck. I therefore set out on a bit of a mission in Chiclayo to compare arroz con pato dishes in the various restaurants at which we dined. First off the rank was a gorgeous little family run outfit by the name of El Huaralino, with an interior and décor seemingly untouched from the 1960s and accolades in the way of framed awards on the walls which have a family portrait feel about them. This place really felt homely after weeks of travelling, beginning with an appetiser of tapioca chips and an avocado and chilli dip that the Waitress had made herself. I then enjoyed a humbly plated yet flavoursome main of arroz con pato for about AUD$10.00 and dessert of panqueque con miel de abejas or pancakes with honey for about AUD$3.00. On the way out, I couldn’t help but take a photo of the Waiter who felt like someone we’d known all our lives.

On the morning of Sunday 2 October, we were greeted at the hotel by Ricardo and our Personal Guide Orlando, for our ensuing tour of the Sipan Ruins, Tucume Ruins and Sipan Museum. The Sipan Ruins surrounded by picturesque sugar cane plantations, was discovered by looters seeking to sell the treasures and artefacts left behind by the Moche, Chimu, Inca and Lambayeque colonies. Luckily the looters discovered only one burial site leaving the majority of treasures, artefacts and burial sites intact for later discovery and public preservation by archaeologists. Much to my unenthusiasm, the following tour of the Tucume Ruins required the climbing of many steps up a hill in dusty heat. While the view from the top of surrounding pyramids and the subsequent museum visit were worth the effort that we were having lunch afterwards at local favourite El Cantero, was music to my ears.

At El Cantero, I enjoyed a very authentic lunch of papas huancaina or potato doused in a rich cheese and corn based sauce and arroz con pato of course, preceded by the Peruvian delicacies of a carob syrup cocktail and roasted corn (which can be likened to popcorn without the white coating). Dessert for Nige was having his photo taken with Walter Alva, the Archaeologist who discovered the main Lord of Sipan tomb and founder of the Sipan Museum, who just happened to be having lunch at El Cantero with his wife and children. After lunch, we reached our final stop of the Sipan Museum containing three floors of original artefacts and remains along with a phenomenal recreation of the Moche colony. Orlando is certainly up there in terms of Personal Guides, with his customer service approach, knowledge and attention to detail. After a jam-packed day, we had a relaxing evening at the hotel in readiness for our transition from Peru to Brazil the next day.

Our last day in Peru on Monday 3 October was first spent walking through the main township of Chiclayo, where we were reminded of the phrase ‘safety in numbers’. We learnt that when crossing the streets in Peru or playing chicken as it were, one should always flock with a group of people rather than cross independently at their own risk, as the abundant little yellow taxis in particular will spare a group but will not hesitate to run down an individual! After braving the streets and navigating through the mazes of markets, we saw off Peru in style with lunch at ‘four fork’ eatery Fiesta.

We were pleasantly surprised to discover on arrival at Fiesta that it’s in fact part of a small and upscale chain with a restaurant also in Lima where we’d already dined. Knowing what to expect, I excitedly ordered the same again for about AUD$15.00, arroz con pato or flor rice infused with coriander from Illimo City and served with duck prepared using the traditional pato mechado method of tenderizing it in a claypot of water, peas and oregano. I couldn’t leave Peru of course without a Peruvian wine, and acquired from Fiesta for about AUD$25.00, a bottle of 2010 Tacana Tannat Petit Verdot that came recommended by their Sommelier.

Highlights of Chiclayo include:

The “scenic” transfer there including the fascinating Huaca Cao Viejo tour;
Our hotel Casa Andina Classic;
The opportunity to compare arroz con pato dishes at El Huaralino, El Cantero and Fiesta;
Judith, Ricardo and Orlando;
Our tours of the Sipan and Tucume ruins; and
Meeting Walter Alva